What’s in a Suit?

Some men may think that one suit is the same as the next, or that by wearing a suit, you will instantly look ‘smart’. The reality is that there are many different qualities to a suit in terms of cut, fabric, and fabrication, and whilst some may give you added authority and style, others can reduce your rank. It all depends on your personal aesthetic.

The original purpose of the suit was to indicate your authority. The suit originated from the suit of armour, the traditional military uniform that identified your rank according to the colour, fastenings, and fabric or material used. The Blazer was created to impress Queen Victoria upon her visit to the HMS Blazer – a British Naval vessel. The use of brass buttons was unique and made the Blazer distinct from the usual uniform.

Certain variations of the suit were used as formal wear for occasions: the tail coat was worn for dinner (now often worn by waiters at 5 star restaurants), the dinner or smoking jacket was actually worn after dinner while men retired to the study for a cigar, the morning coat, now used for formal weddings, was originally used for horse-riding.

These days, the suit is mostly used to mark an occasion or for formality in business, and whilst there is still a uniform for hunting, the suit is not a daily requirement. With the advent of retail stores, the suits that were once made by hand are now available to purchase in the same day from a store. There are three types of suit – bespoke, made-to-measure, and off-the-peg.

Bespoke suits are made by hand and available from traditional tailors. Whether you are the Pope or a City banker, to have a bespoke tailor is a sign of prestige and authority. The London bespoke tailors Gieves and Hawkes on Savile Row, the locale in London for tailors, has been around for two centuries and sells a bespoke suit for £1000/$1850 upwards. The bespoke suit has a hand stitched lining and collar that stitched over the knee to create its natural curve. They are made of quality pure wool and the more you wear them, the more they naturally adjust to your body shape, acting almost as a second skin. Specific measurements are taken to ensure the suit fits the wearer like a glove. Bespoke suits are chosen by royalty and the elite, and can be kept by the wearer for a life time.

Made-to-measure suits are found at the local town tailors or as an alternative at bespoke tailors and are available to fit your upper or lower body size. You can choose the fabric you want and the quality of fabric – pure wool or mix. The suit is then placed on order with the tailor and made for you from a standard tailor block. The benefit of a made-to-measure is that you can choose a suit to match your colour palette and you can choose a different size for your upper or lower body, in affect like separates, to ensure you have the best fit.

Recommended: Jake & Ed's, 314 Mary Street, Waycross GA 31501. (912) 283 2545. Ask for Steve. Stanley Ley, High Holburn, London. 020 7353 3533. Ask for Nick.

Off-the-Peg suits are available to buy off the hanger at a retail store. The suit is available in one set size and depending on the type of store can be adjusted for your trouser length. Off the peg suits can vary enormously in quality depending on the type of retail store. Some stores use low quality fabrics, dummy buttons without a true cuff, and no hand-stitching.

High Budget: Dolce & Gabanna, Ermenegildo Zegna, Armani Collezioni

Middle Budget: Theory, Ben Sherman, Nordstrom

Low Budget: JC Penny, Target

Besides quality, cut and style are also key aspects to finding the right suit.

Suit Shapes

There are three standard suit shapes:

Classic – slightly tapered in the waist, medium lapel, 2 or 3 buttons, e.g. Armani Collezioni. Suits a more straight body shape, and all types, but the style and the fabric is what will differentiate it for the different shapes.

European – wider on the shoulder, relaxed at waist and hip, typically 2 buttons e.g. Hugo Boss. Suits a broader chest and the patriarch archetypes with a mesomorph body type.

English – more tapered at waist, fitted and often double breasted e.g. Paul Smith. Suits a more tapered waistline with angular shoulder and sharper look - the ectomorph body shape, and either in a petite style for the Boyish look or larger scale for the Sage types.

English

European

Classic