The Art of Clothing
How to have Colour Sense
The Wardrobe Shrink™
“Man at the dawn of civilisation recognised that sunlight was essential to light. Colour, being a manifestation of light, held divine meaning” – Faber Birren
Colour is defined as wavelengths of light radiating at different frequencies. But the easiest way to view colour, is to consider it as simply light. The way you apply light on yourself will determine how you are seen by others. Some people wish to shine as if they were under a spotlight, others prefer the subtlety of shade.
And, it is essential to know that there is no mistake to what you prefer either. Johannes Itten, a lecturer at the Bauhaus School of Art, the famous school in Germany in the 20’s and 30’s, monitored his art students and discovered that each student leaned towards always using their own familiar colour palette. That colour palette he discovered was a reflection of the student’s own individual colouring.
We are intuitively drawn towards colours that work with our own colouring. However, scientists have proven that we tend to lose this natural sense after the age of ten. We also have a huge choice of style and clothing today and the continuous change of fashion that can divert our attention from our own preferences.
There is a formula, a scientific theory, to determine your own colouring. How does it work? And how can you have colour sense?
According to colour theory, all colours are derived from the three primary colours – red, yellow and blue. Taking it one step further, all colours have a temperature, i.e. a yellow base (warm) or a blue base (cool). Your skin undertone also is warm or it is cool. This is the basics of colour analysis for the individual
How do you know whether you have cool or warm skintone?
This is not something that can be determined 100% through a written formula, as we all have our unique combination of colours, and so a visual consultation is required to understand your own blueprint accurately. But, by comparing colour temperature and understanding basic colour theory, there is a way to give you a quick sense of what may be right for you.
Step One
Taking the primary colours - yellow, red, and blue, and the secondary colours, which are a combination of the primary - orange, green and violet, we have the foundation of all colour.
Examples of warm and cool variations:
Cool Warm
Blue Royal Blue Turquoise
Yellow Lemon Mustard
Red Cherry Brick
Green Jade Apple
Orange Acid Orange Amber
Violet Lavender Violet
What base are you drawn to most?
Wear warm colours for warm skin tones and cool colours for cool skin tones.
Step Two
Adding white (a tint) or black (a shade) or grey (a tone), you are able to create all the colours that exist in the world.
Example:
Bluewith black Navy
with white Powder Blue
with grey Airforce Blue
a primary Royal Blue
Which depth of tone are you drawn to?
Wear the depth of colour that matches your complexion and to which you are drawn.
Step Three
Colour analysts split colours into different colour palettes to help define a person’s unique colouring.
Some us seasonal differentiation:
Winter - Cool and clear - lightest tints, darkest tones, strongest primaries
Summer - Cool and soft - blend of soft tints and tones
Spring - Warm and clear - light tints, strong primaries, few shades
Autumn - Warm and soft - few tints, few primaries, blend of rich shades
Some use tonal differentiation:
Light - tints, Dark - shades
Soft - tones, Clear - primaries
Warm - yellow based, Cool - blue based
When you look in the mirror, which of the above terms best describes your complexion?
Keep the colours that you wear to one palette. They not only will all flatter you, but they will also harmonise with each other, optimising on how they reflect and their affect.
Step Four
All colours have a psychological affect on the wearer and a psychological affect on the onlooker. Colour is commonly used in the medical and business world to evoke a physiological and psychological reaction. Physically colour is often used to heal, such as doctors using coloured lights to heal newly born babies of jaundice. Psychologically colour is used to create a sense of trust, reassurance, energy and calm.
Psychological meanings of primary and secondary colours:
Red - Extroversion, strength, stimulates physical; can be overbearing if too strong
Blue - Introversion, stimulates intellect, concentration; reflection, calm, soothing Very dark conveys high authority - as in a uniform)
Yellow - Extroversion, stimulates emotion; creativity, optimism
Orange - Energy, lively; derived from yellow and red
Green - Balance, peace, nature; combination of two main primary colours of opposite polarities
Violet - Spirituality, meditation, the whole; combination of all primary colours red, yellow and blue
White - Clinical, innocence, purity
Black - Intensity, experience; can be depressive and overbearing
Grey - Simplicity, subdued, subtle
Choose the colours that you wear to reflect your character, your mood and to impact how you feel and people you come into contact with.
Step Five
Combine your colours correctly. Imagine an artist painting in the same colour palette – e.g. cool shades, then adding a warm light line across his painting. If he wanted to draw all the attention from the rest of the painting to that line, then this would be the way to do it.
Likewise, if you wish to detract all attention away from you, then the best way is to wear a complete opposing palette to your own natural skin tone. Wearing colours that don’t match with you can make you look cold, older, tired, sallow, puffy, green and also completely out of context.
Inappropriate colour combinations can distort the finished look and invade the other colours in the palette, draining them of their true hue or making them look a different colour altogether. This is one of the most important rules associated with colour theory. It is not about simply knowing what best suits your colour tone, but implementing it effectively and using colour from your own palette across your whole outfit.
Tip: Lay your clothes out before putting them on to ensure they work well together.
Wearing light/colour is a necessary part of any outfit. Taking a black t-shirt and changing it to a blue, green or red of your colour base, you will not only physically look better, but you will also feel differently.
Walk yourself through the steps and start to consider what your own colour palette may be and bring it to life.

©2004-2011 The Wardrobe Shrink™