The Art of Clothing

I went to the movie theatre this weekend to see The Devil Wears Prada. Two things struck me about it – first, how much vanity plays a huge role in the world of fashion but also second, that the art of clothing seems to have changed. It is the label that has more significance often than the art itself these days. Fashion trends dictate more the style of the collection or boundaries rather than the independent artist creating a vision or new fashion. Project Runway, a designer reality show, focuses more on the perceptions of the judges and you are left with recycled fashions and less unique creations, I feel. How can you critique one piece of art by comparing it to another when each has its own idea?

Fashion is a form of art, the art of clothes and style. But, today, the artists (designers) are being superseded by the label or corporation, for example Gap or Nike. The artist is no longer the focal point, but instead the brand. Whilst the Haute Couture Houses have dedicated designers, the House itself remains ultimately the brand.

So, who are the iconic fashion artists? The last century brought about a huge change in our wardrobes and many new styles were created. Here are a few key artists from this time.

The 20's – Coco Chanel

This was a very significant era. Culture became international, music was bringing in new sounds – the revolution of Jazz, which brought Josephine Baker and her Charleston dance. Her costumes bought the flapper and feathers and fringes to garments. There was a great sense of post-war freedom, especially amongst women. As many had to take over from their husbands who went off to battle, they developed a new confidence and saw themselves as equals. The right to vote lead the way for a more liberated woman in need of a new liberated wardrobe. This was expressed through a more androgynous look – the Eton crop, the necktie and jacket, and a cigarette with holder to top it off - the Garçonnes, as they were referred to. Modern art was born and the Bauhaus School of Art brought a whole new contemporary, abstract look – straight lines, definite designs and functionality. This crossed into the art of fashion with more practical clothing for women. Coco Chanel was the designer who was able to translate this onto the catwalk. After having worn her boyfriend Etienne's clothing while at his estate and when playing sports, she understood what women really wanted. The 'little Black Dress', something every woman has in her wardrobe today, was what made her famous. She also made popular the tan, as the preferred look for women at the time was to be pale. The look of the future was born.

The 40's – Christian Dior

Post-war industry with fabric scarcity and budgeting a must, Christian Dior created 'the new look' which launched feminine lines, frills, gentle shoulder lines and the wasp waist. Although concerned that they would be considered too lavish and luxurious, the Aristocracy loved it. Overnight he became a sensation and his 'Y-line' – the tapered cut and the 'A-line' – soft shoulder and 2 sides of a triangle flared from the waist were born. So, each time you wear an A-line skirt, it is down to the creation of Christian Dior.

The 60's – Mary Quant and Yves St Laurent

Mary Quant was believed to have invented the mini-skirt, although she claimed it wasn’t her but the girls on the Street that did. Her tunic dress shown in Vogue in 1962 brought in a young and fresh look, rather than the more mature styles of the previous decade, and the use of more modern fabrics such as jersey. She brought Haute Couture into the High Street and she revolutionised the short hair style with the 'five point cut' that Vidal Sassoon designed for her.

Yves St Laurent, after leaving Christian Dior, resonating also with the Beat movement of the Street. His Mondrian dress is famous for its modern look. He also launched the first prêt-a-porter collection called Rive Gauche which means Left Bank in French – the left bank is known as Bohemian quarter of Paris.

The 70's – Vivienne Westwood

Along with her husband Malcolm McLaren, manager of the English Punk Band The Sex Pistols, Vivienne Westwood claims that Punk was not a Street movement but a fashion creation that she was responsible for. After opening her store on Kings Road in London, her designs using rubber, leather, chains, rips, stilettos and extreme hairstyles was against what she referred to as "the taste dictatorship of the masses". Rather than the hippy movement, which seemed weak in her view, her designs were a statement to get attention from the establishment. And that she did! The Punk movement took off and she became a style icon and a true artist – self-taught and with her own vision.

My favourite style icon is Erté (Romain de Tirtoff) – the Russian French immigrant who worked for Paul Poiret in 1910 as a fashion illustrator, before venturing out on his own. Erté was the godfather of Art Deco and also a sculptor and stage designer. He created the most ingenious fashion designs – flamboyant, artistic and unique. He also illustrated the cover of Harper's Bazaar during the ‘20's and ‘30's. He speaks as a true fashion artist – "I do not blindly follow the current fashion. I love clothes that are luxurious and beautiful, and I believe they should enhance the good points of the woman who wears them – they should, in fact, be completely individual."

This article appeared in Sarah’s column in the Savannah Morning News in July 22nd, 2006. Updated July 2009.